To use a gua sha on your face, work on clean skin with oil, hold the stone almost flat, press lightly and stroke from the centre of the face outwards, then down towards the neck, 5 to 10 strokes per area. Done this way for 5 minutes, 3 to 5 times a week, it helps to depuff and relax the features, but it is not a facelift: the effect lasts a few hours, not for good. Here is the step-by-step method, the real benefits, the risks to know about and how to choose a stone.
What is gua sha?
Gua sha is a traditional Chinese medicine technique that involves stroking the skin with a smooth tool. The original version, done on the back or neck, uses firm pressure and deliberately leaves red marks. Facial gua sha is quite different: it is a gentle massage with a small, flat stone with rounded edges that glides over the skin without ever marking it.
The realistic benefits of facial gua sha
- A less puffy face: by smoothing the skin towards the lymph nodes in the neck, the movement helps clear fluid that has built up overnight. This is the principle of facial lymphatic drainage.
- More relaxed features: the jaw, forehead and the space between the brows often hold tension. The slow glide of the stone eases it.
- A fresher complexion: massage brings blood to the surface. The skin looks rosier and brighter for a while.
- A real moment of calm: five minutes of slow movements in the evening help many people unwind before bed.
What gua sha does not do: it does not lift the cheeks for good, reshape the bone structure or slim the face. Serious studies on facial gua sha are scarce. A pilot study (Nielsen et al., 2007, Explore journal) measured an increase in skin microcirculation after a classic gua sha session on the back, but no promise for the face can be drawn from it. A small Korean trial (Ahn et al., 2025) followed 33 women who used a gua sha or a facial roller for 10 minutes, 5 times a week, for 8 weeks: in the gua sha group, tension in the jaw muscle went down, but the trial had no group without massage for comparison. Expect a brighter, less puffy face, not a transformation.
How to use a gua sha on your face, step by step
- Start with clean skin. Remove your make-up and wash your hands, then clean the stone with soapy water.
- Apply an oil or serum. This is essential: on dry skin the stone drags and pulls the skin. A few drops of plant oil (jojoba, for example) or a slightly rich serum are enough.
- Hold the stone almost flat. It should lie nearly flat against the skin, at about 15 degrees. Held upright, it scrapes instead of gliding.
- Barely press. Pressure should stay light, like a firm stroke. If the skin goes very red or it hurts, you are pressing too hard.
- Start with the neck. Glide gently from under the ear down to the collarbone, 5 times on each side, on the sides of the neck and never on the throat. This opens the way to the lymph nodes of the face and neck.
- Work up area by area, from the centre outwards. Chin to ear along the jawline, then the side of the nose to the ear under the cheekbone, then the middle of the forehead to the temples. Finish each series by sweeping down towards the neck.
- Count 5 to 10 strokes per area. Do one side of the face, then the other. Under the eyes the skin is very thin: just skim it, or skip that area.
Stone held too upright, too much pressure, no oil: most disappointments come from these. We cover them in the 5 mistakes that make gua sha ineffective.
How long and how often
A 5-minute session is enough, 10 at most. Longer adds nothing and irritates the skin. The most sensible rhythm is 3 to 5 times a week; daily use is fine if your skin tolerates it without reddening. In the morning, gua sha mainly helps to depuff; in the evening, it relaxes. Either way, clean the stone after use and let it air-dry.
Gua sha before and after: what to expect
Right after a session, the face looks more defined: less puffiness around the jaw and cheekbones, a rosier complexion, more rested features. The effect usually lasts a few hours, until fluid builds up again. That is why regularity matters more than intensity.
Be wary of dramatic before-and-after photos: light, angle and time of day change everything. A face that is puffy in the morning also depuffs on its own within a few hours. To judge fairly, take your photos in the same conditions, before and 10 minutes after the session, and compare over two or three weeks.
Is gua sha dangerous? Side effects and contraindications
Done properly, facial gua sha is safe for most people. But some situations call for stopping or not starting at all:
- Redness or small red spots: slight redness that fades within minutes is normal. Red dots or bruises mean the pressure is too strong.
- Visible small blood vessels (broken capillaries): friction and heat can make them more noticeable. Avoid these areas.
- Rosacea: massage can trigger flare-ups of redness. Ask your dermatologist before you start.
- Active acne: going over inflamed spots spreads bacteria and irritates. Work around the affected areas. A very rich oil can also cause breakouts: choose a light one.
- Broken or raw skin: cuts, sunburn, an eczema flare, or skin sensitised by a peel, laser or recent injections. Wait for it to heal and for your practitioner's go-ahead.
- Anticoagulant treatment or fragile blood vessels: the risk of bruising is higher. Talk to your doctor before trying it.
If redness lasts more than a day, bruises appear or an area swells for no known reason, stop and see a doctor.
Which stone to choose: rose quartz, jade or stainless steel
- Rose quartz gua sha: the most common. Smooth and cool to the touch, it suits all skin types.
- Jade: the traditional stone. The technique is the same; just watch out for glass or resin imitations.
- Stainless steel: unbreakable, easy to disinfect, it stays cool for longer. A good choice if you travel or worry about breaking a stone.
The material matters less than the shape and finish. Look for rounded, well-polished edges with no chips or rough spots, and a V-shaped notch to follow the jawline. The properties attributed to each stone come from tradition, not evidence.
When to choose a lymphatic brush instead
Gua sha needs oil, a bit of technique and time. If your main goal is to depuff your face in the morning, before make-up, a facial lymphatic brush is simpler: it is used dry, with no product, and its half-moon head follows the jaw and neck in a single stroke, in 5 minutes. For a routine for a puffy face in the morning, it is often the easiest tool to stick with. To find out which of the two suits you, read our gua sha vs lymphatic brush comparison.
| Criterion | Gua sha | Lymphatic brush |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | Flat stone held almost flat, smoothed from the centre of the face outwards | Half-moon head swept along the jaw and neck |
| Product needed | Oil or serum, essential | None, it is used dry |
| Time | 5 to 10 minutes | About 5 minutes |
| Best for | You enjoy a slow ritual, ideally in the evening | You want a quick step in the morning, before make-up |
Sources
- Nielsen A. et al., The effect of Gua Sha treatment on the microcirculation of surface tissue, Explore (NY), 2007
- Ahn S.H. et al., Comparative effects of facial roller and gua sha massage on facial contour, muscle tone and skin elasticity, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2025
Frequently asked questions
Does gua sha really work?
Yes for depuffing and relaxing the face in the short term, as long as you use it regularly. No for a lasting lifting effect: no solid study shows one.
Is gua sha dangerous?
Not when used gently on healthy skin. Avoid it on active acne, rosacea, broken capillaries and damaged skin, and ask your doctor if you take anticoagulants.
Gua sha: morning or evening?
Both work. In the morning it mainly helps to depuff; in the evening it relaxes the features before bed.
How many times a week should you do gua sha?
Three to five times a week, 5 minutes per session. Every day is fine if your skin does not redden.
Can you use gua sha without oil?
No: without oil or serum, the stone drags and pulls the skin. If you want something you can use dry, a lymphatic brush is made for that.
