Cheveux cassants ou chute de cheveux : comment faire la différence

Hair Breakage or Hair Loss: How to Tell the Difference

To tell breakage from hair loss, look at the base of the hair you found: a hair that has fallen out naturally has a small, translucent white bulb at its end; a broken hair has no bulb, is shorter than the rest of your hair and has a clean or frayed end.

Hair that breaks is not treated the same way as hair that falls out. This distinction changes everything, because the causes and the solutions are radically different: hair loss happens at the root, in the follicle, whereas breakage happens along the hair shaft itself, often because of mechanical or chemical damage. Treating breakage as hair loss (or the other way round) means tackling the wrong problem.

Breakage vs hair loss: the comparison table

Criterion Broken hair Shed hair (hair loss)
What the base looks like No bulb, clean or split end Small translucent white bulb (root)
Length Short: fragments a few cm long The full length of your hair
Where you find them On your shoulders, in the sink, after styling In your brush, in the shower, on your pillow
Areas affected Lengths and ends, hairline edges (temples, nape) Scalp: wider parting, reduced density
Main causes Heat, bleaching, friction, hair ties Hormones, stress, deficiencies, genetics, season
How it feels Rough, split, "straw-like" hair Normal hair, but less of it
Solutions Protect and repair the hair shaft Work on the scalp and the internal causes

The simple test you can do at home

Three checks, five minutes, no special equipment:

1. Examine the hair you found

Pick up a few hairs from your brush or your clothes and look at them against a contrasting background (a white sheet of paper for dark hair, a dark one for light hair). Look for the bulb: a small, whitish, slightly swollen tip at one end. Bulb present = a hair that has reached the end of its cycle, so this is hair loss. No bulb and a hair clearly shorter than your lengths = breakage.

2. The length test

Compare the length of the hairs you found with the length of your own hair. Fragments of 3 to 10 cm when your hair is 30 cm long are a sign of breakage. Whole hairs, the same length as yours, point to hair loss.

3. The gentle pull test

On clean, dry hair that has not been washed for 24 hours, take a section of about 50–60 hairs between your thumb and index finger, close to the root, and gently pull towards the ends. Getting more than 5 or 6 hairs with a bulb each time, repeated on several areas, may suggest active hair loss — dermatologists use a standardised version of this test during consultations. This at-home test is only an indication: only a professional can make a diagnosis.

A useful reminder: losing 50 to 100 hairs a day is perfectly normal. It is simply the natural renewal of the hair cycle.

What causes breakage: the hair shaft is under attack

  • Heat. Straighteners and curling irons above 180 °C, a hairdryer held too close: repeated heat dehydrates the hair shaft and weakens the keratin. Studies on the hair fibre show damage to the cuticle from the very first exposures without a heat protectant.
  • Bleaching and chemical colouring. Opening up the cuticle scales to remove or deposit pigment structurally weakens the hair. Repeated bleaching is the leading cause of severe breakage.
  • Friction. Cotton pillowcases, towels rubbed vigorously, collars and scarves: repeated friction lifts the cuticle scales and breaks the lengths, especially at night.
  • Hair ties and tight hairstyles. Hair ties with metal parts, very tight ponytails always in the same spot, braids pulled too tight: localised tension breaks the hair where it is tied. Over time, chronic pulling can even cause a form of localised hair loss (traction alopecia), typically at the temples.
  • Brushing wet hair. Wet hair is more elastic and more fragile; brushing it roughly at that point greatly increases breakage.

What causes hair loss: the follicle is involved

Hair loss, on the other hand, is decided beneath the scalp. Its causes are more varied and often internal: hormonal fluctuations (postpartum, menopause, thyroid disorders), intense or prolonged stress, deficiencies (iron, zinc, vitamin D, protein), genetic predisposition, seasonal shedding in autumn, or a side effect of certain treatments. Each cause calls for a different response, and sudden or persistent hair loss warrants medical advice.

To explore these causes in detail and find out what steps to take, here are two in-depth resources: our article on hair loss in young women and its solutions, and our complete guide to hair growth serums.

Solutions for your situation

If it is breakage: protect and strengthen the hair shaft

  • Use heated styling tools less often and never above 180 °C, always with a heat protectant.
  • Space out bleaching sessions and alternate with protein-rich treatments (keratin masks), while keeping the right balance between protein and moisture.
  • Switch to a silk or satin pillowcase and dry your hair by patting it with a microfibre towel.
  • Replace standard hair ties with silk scrunchies or spiral hair ties, and vary where you tie your hair.
  • Detangle on damp (not soaking) hair with a wide-tooth comb, working from the ends up to the roots.
  • Trim split ends: a split end that is left untrimmed travels up the hair shaft.

If it is hair loss: work on the scalp and the causes

  • Identify the trigger (a stressful event, childbirth, a restrictive diet, a change of season) — most reactive hair loss settles within a few months once the cause has been dealt with.
  • Check your intake of iron, zinc and protein; a blood test prescribed by a doctor can confirm whether you have a deficiency.
  • Massage your scalp regularly to stimulate local microcirculation.
  • See a dermatologist if the hair loss lasts more than 6 months, or comes with a widening parting or thinning patches: the earlier it is addressed, the more effective the options.

What if it is both?

This is common: hair weakened by bleaching can also go through seasonal shedding. In that case, tackle both at the same time — protecting the hair shaft on one side, caring for the scalp and correcting the internal causes on the other. Repeating the bulb test regularly will let you track how each problem evolves separately.

Key takeaways

  • White bulb at the base = hair loss; no bulb and a short hair = breakage.
  • Breakage damages the lengths (heat, chemicals, friction); hair loss happens at the root (hormones, stress, deficiencies).
  • Losing 50 to 100 hairs a day is normal.
  • The gentle pull test gives you a first clue, but only a professional can make a diagnosis.
  • The solutions are different: repair the hair shaft for breakage; care for the scalp and address the internal causes for hair loss.

To support a weakened scalp day after day, discover the ORVOVA roll-on hair serum.

Further reading

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